Review Archives - Page 2 of 18 - More Drams, Less Drama

Monnet XXO Cognac

11th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

We continue our cognac journey with the tenth dram from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar: a Monnet XXO Cognac. Monnet Cognac was founded in 1838 by Jean-Gabriel Monnet. The company operates from facilities in Cognac, where it was among the first to centralise the entire production process. Its bottles feature a salamander emblem, originally associated with King Francis I. The Monnet Estate covers 23 hectares of clay-limestone soil (groies) in the Fins Bois region. But let’s crack on to the tasting, shall we?

Prunier Horizon Fine Champagne Cognac

10th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

We continue to explore cognacs as we open a Prunier Horizon Cognac, the ninth sample from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar. Even though Maison Prunier was founded in 1769, you can trace its origins to 1665, when Jean Prunier, a renowned Cognac expert from La Rochelle, began producing wine and eaux-de-vie. By the early 1700s, he was exporting his products globally, establishing Cognac Prunier. His son, Gabriel, and later his grandson, also named Jean, carried on the family’s legacy. François Prunier expanded the business by acquiring vineyards near St-Jean-d’Angély and settling the operation in Cognac in the early 1800s.

The third Jean Prunier’s three sons – Alphonse, Marcel, and Gaston – continued the tradition. Alphonse led the company, Marcel managed European representation, and Gaston founded a branch in Melbourne, Australia. After Alphonse’s death in 1918, his widow enlisted her nephew, Jean Burnez, to lead the business. Jean’s son, Claude Burnez (1927–2011), later succeeded him, passing leadership to his wife, Susan, in 1987. In 2009, their son Stéphane Burnez took over, joined by his daughter Alice in 2016.

Now in its sixth generation, Cognac Prunier remains family-run and based in the same medieval building in Cognac for over two centuries. The company produces a wide range of Cognacs and eaux-de-vie, honouring long-standing traditions. Their offerings span from 2-year-old Cognacs to XO blends, reflecting their commitment to quality and heritage. Let’s review this Prunier Horizon Fine Champagne Cognac now, shall we?

Tesseron Extra Légende Cognac

9th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

As we start the second week of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, the eighth dram is a Tesseron Extra Légende Cognac. Maison Abel Tesseron, founded in 1905, has a rich history of crafting exceptional cognacs. Abel Tesseron established the house with the vision of preserving eaux-de-vie in a 12th-century crypt, leveraging estates in Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Joined by his son Guy in 1940, the family earned renown for their expertise in ageing cognacs, further solidified by Guy’s acquisition of Château Pontet-Canet in 1975. For nearly a century, Tesseron Cognac remained a hidden gem until Alfred and Gérard Tesseron, the third generation, launched the brand’s first XO cognacs in 2000. Today Noé Tesseron, representing the fourth generation, brings a modern perspective to the family’s legacy. The Tesseron cellars, originally part of a 12th-century church crypt, house inside what’s called ‘The Paradis’ (Heaven) the oldest and most treasured eaux-de-vie of the maison, some dating back to Abel Tesseron’s private collection. This invaluable collection, among the largest of aged cognacs, is stored in glass demijohns under ideal conditions to perfect their ageing. Beyond its historical significance, this exceptional reserve serves as a vital resource for creating Tesseron’s most prestigious cognacs. Nowadays, the Maison Terreron exploits about 25 ha of vines in Grande Champagne, and 15 ha in Petite Champagne.

Lhéraud 1994 Vintage Cognac

8th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

For the 7th dram and last of the first week of the Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we now have a Lhéraud 1994 Vintage cognac, from the Petite Champagne cru. The Lhéraud family’s winemaking heritage spans centuries, beginning with Jean Lhéraud, the founder of the first Lhéraud distillery, around 1785. In 1860, Alexandre Lhéraud settled in the Petite Champagne region to serve the local château keeper (a chatelain) and was the first to plant vines in his garden. The legacy was carried forward and later entrusted to Andrée and Guy, the 8th generation in the Lhéraud family, around fifty years ago when they inherited the cognac estate.

At that time, challenges were abundant, but Andrée and Guy persevered with determination and hard work, focusing on crafting exceptional cognacs and gaining the recognition their products deserved. Their lives revolved around tireless participation in trade fairs and extensive travel to promote their cognacs across the globe. In 1970, the decision to establish the brand name ‘Cognac Lhéraud’ marked a turning point. Though the demanding travel schedule persisted, the brand’s growing reputation attracted global attention, solidifying Lhéraud Cognac’s place in the world of fine spirits (not only cognac but also armagnac and pineau).

Nowadays, their domain spreads over 100 hectares in the Petite Champagne region, and 35 hectares spread over Grande Champagne, Fins Bois and Bons Bois.

Now, time to see what they’re about: let’s review that Lhéraud 1994 Vintage cognac.

Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac

7th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

For day six of our Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we feature the Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac from the Borderies cru. Grateaud, established in 1920, is a family-run producer of Pineau des Charentes, Cognac, and liqueurs. Their estate, located near Chérac in the hamlet of La Maine Garnier, spans 41 hectares of prime Borderies vineyard land, all within a 3-kilometre radius of the property. Recently, they expanded by renting an additional 16 hectares of vines, also in the Borderies commune of Chérac. A few years ago, they acquired 12 hectares in the Petite Champagne cru in Rouffiac, although the eaux-de-vie from these vines are still ageing.

An interesting historical note: in 1932, the French Agriculture Minister awarded David Grateaud’s great-grandfather, Alphonse Grateaud, the prestigious Chevalier du Mérite Agricole (Knight of Agricultural Merit) for his exceptional contributions to agriculture. This honor, established in 1883, was second only to the French Legion of Honour at the time.

In the Borderies, the Grateaud estate nurtures some truly old vines, including centenarians and others planted as far back as 1951. The terroir features silex and clay, contributing to the unique profile of their Cognacs. By contrast, their vines in Rouffiac, Petite Champagne, grow in limestone-rich soil that dries out quickly and lies at a lower altitude, making them more susceptible to spring frosts.

But enough background—let’s take a more exciting approach to discover this estate by diving straight into their Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac!

Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac

6th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

My fifth Cognac sample from the Cognac Expert Advent Calendar 2024 is a Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac. Fradon’s history starts under another name, as Henri Chainier pioneered the bottling and commercialisation of Pineau des Charentes in the 1930s, a local aperitif that people only enjoyed within families at the time. In the 1950s, his daughter Denise married Marc Fradon, and the domain changed name to Fradon. In 1989, their son Michel took over the estate, expanding direct sales and welcoming visitors to the domain. Today, Damien, Henri’s great-grandson, carries on the family tradition. Whilst they used mostly Ugni Blanc grapes, they introduced the Folle Blanche grape to their production in 2003. Despite its lower yield, susceptibility to rot, and challenging vinification, it delivers exceptional eaux-de-vie that are refined, delicate, and intensely aromatic. Fradon‘’’s domain extends over 40 ha in the Petite Champagne region.

Bache Gabrielsen Hors d'Age Grande Champagne Cognac

Bache Gabrielsen Hors D’Âge Cognac

5th December 20245th December 2024Coldorak

The fourth cognac in my 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar is Bache Gabrielsen Hors d’Âge. The story begins in 1903 when 20-year-old Norwegian Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen left the military and moved to Cognac to grow the family business. There, he met Odette, a local winegrower’s daughter. Captivated by both Cognac and Odette, he stayed. In 1905, with his friend Peter Rustad, he purchased Maison A. Edmond Dupuy, founded in 1852, marking the start of Bache Gabrielsen Cognac. Thomas and Odette married in 1906, laying the foundation for their ambitious family Maison.

In 1916, during Prohibition, he rebranded his “Three Stars” cognac as “Tre Kors” (Three Crosses), marketing it as medicine through Norwegian pharmacies, with customers lining up at doctors and veterinarians to buy it. The Maison passed through generations, and in 2009, Hervé Bache-Gabrielsen took over from his father Christian. A notable chapter in their history occurred in 2000 when a truck carrying 19,000 bottles was stolen. The stolen bottles sold cheaply under the table, boosting their fame and making Bache Gabrielsen the most sold spirit in Norway by 2002.

Today, Bache Gabrielsen operates as a négociant, sourcing eaux-de-vie from various producers. While their oldest cognac dates back to 1842, today’s tasting, the Hors d’Âge, is considerably younger!

Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac

4th December 20244th December 2024Coldorak

For the third cognac in our 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we stay in the Fins Bois region with Martinaud XO Heritage. Founded in 1847, the estate is now managed by the eighth generation of the Martinaud family, with Pierre-Alain and Michel Martinaud at the helm. The domain spans 23 hectares in Bons Bois, nine hectares in Petite Champagne, two hectares in Fins Bois, and half a hectare in Grande Champagne.

The Martinaud family prioritises sustainability, focusing on biodiversity preservation, a phytosanitary strategy, and water resource conservation to produce the finest eaux-de-vie. Distillation is carried out in two Charentais stills with capacities of 25 and 20 hectoliters, and their cognacs age in a relatively dry cellar, where the oldest eaux-de-vie dates back to 1929.

However, today’s review is focused on Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac, not those ancient stocks.

Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art Cognac

3rd December 20243rd December 2024Coldorak

The second cognac from my 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar is a multi-vintage Vaudon Lot 75/78/80, bottled by German independent bottler Grape of the Art. Vaudon’s estate spans 60 hectares, primarily in the Fins Bois region, the largest Cognac production area. Their history dates back to 1771 when François Gaborit passed the domain to his son-in-law, Pierre Nalbert. Significant expansion occurred in the 20th century under Denis and later Pierre Mousset. Further growth followed when Pierre Vaudon married Anne-Marie Mousset, uniting two winemaking families.

Vaudon produces both single-cru Fins Bois cognacs and multi-cru blends with the neighbouring Grande Champagne region. Today’s review focuses on this multi-vintage, single-cru Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art.

Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac

2nd December 20243rd December 2024Coldorak

The 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar begins with Esprit, a Grande Champagne cognac from Claude Thorin. The Thorin story dates back to 1879, when the family vineyard was first established. Shortly after, phylloxera devastated much of the Charente region. In 1950, André Thorin replanted vines and began rebuilding the estate, initially focusing on parcels in Mainxe, part of the prestigious Grande Champagne cru.

Since the 1990s, Claude Thorin has expanded the estate to 84 hectares, introduced his own cognac range, and joined the independent winegrowers’ association. The property is located in Segonzac, at Biard. In 2021, a new generation – Elise and Mathilde – joined, with Elise overseeing production and Mathilde managing sales.

So, my first review of the month is for the Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac. Let’s see if switching from my usual whisky advent calendar to a cognac one this year was a good choice!