Events Archives - More Drams, Less Drama

Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac

7th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

For day six of our Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we feature the Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac from the Borderies cru. Grateaud, established in 1920, is a family-run producer of Pineau des Charentes, Cognac, and liqueurs. Their estate, located near Chérac in the hamlet of La Maine Garnier, spans 41 hectares of prime Borderies vineyard land, all within a 3-kilometre radius of the property. Recently, they expanded by renting an additional 16 hectares of vines, also in the Borderies commune of Chérac. A few years ago, they acquired 12 hectares in the Petite Champagne cru in Rouffiac, although the eaux-de-vie from these vines are still ageing.

An interesting historical note: in 1932, the French Agriculture Minister awarded David Grateaud’s great-grandfather, Alphonse Grateaud, the prestigious Chevalier du Mérite Agricole (Knight of Agricultural Merit) for his exceptional contributions to agriculture. This honor, established in 1883, was second only to the French Legion of Honour at the time.

In the Borderies, the Grateaud estate nurtures some truly old vines, including centenarians and others planted as far back as 1951. The terroir features silex and clay, contributing to the unique profile of their Cognacs. By contrast, their vines in Rouffiac, Petite Champagne, grow in limestone-rich soil that dries out quickly and lies at a lower altitude, making them more susceptible to spring frosts.

But enough background—let’s take a more exciting approach to discover this estate by diving straight into their Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac!

Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac

6th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

My fifth Cognac sample from the Cognac Expert Advent Calendar 2024 is a Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac. Fradon’s history starts under another name, as Henri Chainier pioneered the bottling and commercialisation of Pineau des Charentes in the 1930s, a local aperitif that people only enjoyed within families at the time. In the 1950s, his daughter Denise married Marc Fradon, and the domain changed name to Fradon. In 1989, their son Michel took over the estate, expanding direct sales and welcoming visitors to the domain. Today, Damien, Henri’s great-grandson, carries on the family tradition. Whilst they used mostly Ugni Blanc grapes, they introduced the Folle Blanche grape to their production in 2003. Despite its lower yield, susceptibility to rot, and challenging vinification, it delivers exceptional eaux-de-vie that are refined, delicate, and intensely aromatic. Fradon‘’’s domain extends over 40 ha in the Petite Champagne region.

Bache Gabrielsen Hors d'Age Grande Champagne Cognac

Bache Gabrielsen Hors D’Âge Cognac

5th December 20245th December 2024Coldorak

The fourth cognac in my 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar is Bache Gabrielsen Hors d’Âge. The story begins in 1903 when 20-year-old Norwegian Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen left the military and moved to Cognac to grow the family business. There, he met Odette, a local winegrower’s daughter. Captivated by both Cognac and Odette, he stayed. In 1905, with his friend Peter Rustad, he purchased Maison A. Edmond Dupuy, founded in 1852, marking the start of Bache Gabrielsen Cognac. Thomas and Odette married in 1906, laying the foundation for their ambitious family Maison.

In 1916, during Prohibition, he rebranded his “Three Stars” cognac as “Tre Kors” (Three Crosses), marketing it as medicine through Norwegian pharmacies, with customers lining up at doctors and veterinarians to buy it. The Maison passed through generations, and in 2009, Hervé Bache-Gabrielsen took over from his father Christian. A notable chapter in their history occurred in 2000 when a truck carrying 19,000 bottles was stolen. The stolen bottles sold cheaply under the table, boosting their fame and making Bache Gabrielsen the most sold spirit in Norway by 2002.

Today, Bache Gabrielsen operates as a négociant, sourcing eaux-de-vie from various producers. While their oldest cognac dates back to 1842, today’s tasting, the Hors d’Âge, is considerably younger!

Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac

4th December 20244th December 2024Coldorak

For the third cognac in our 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we stay in the Fins Bois region with Martinaud XO Heritage. Founded in 1847, the estate is now managed by the eighth generation of the Martinaud family, with Pierre-Alain and Michel Martinaud at the helm. The domain spans 23 hectares in Bons Bois, nine hectares in Petite Champagne, two hectares in Fins Bois, and half a hectare in Grande Champagne.

The Martinaud family prioritises sustainability, focusing on biodiversity preservation, a phytosanitary strategy, and water resource conservation to produce the finest eaux-de-vie. Distillation is carried out in two Charentais stills with capacities of 25 and 20 hectoliters, and their cognacs age in a relatively dry cellar, where the oldest eaux-de-vie dates back to 1929.

However, today’s review is focused on Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac, not those ancient stocks.

Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art Cognac

3rd December 20243rd December 2024Coldorak

The second cognac from my 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar is a multi-vintage Vaudon Lot 75/78/80, bottled by German independent bottler Grape of the Art. Vaudon’s estate spans 60 hectares, primarily in the Fins Bois region, the largest Cognac production area. Their history dates back to 1771 when François Gaborit passed the domain to his son-in-law, Pierre Nalbert. Significant expansion occurred in the 20th century under Denis and later Pierre Mousset. Further growth followed when Pierre Vaudon married Anne-Marie Mousset, uniting two winemaking families.

Vaudon produces both single-cru Fins Bois cognacs and multi-cru blends with the neighbouring Grande Champagne region. Today’s review focuses on this multi-vintage, single-cru Vaudon 75/78/80 Grape of the Art.

Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac

2nd December 20243rd December 2024Coldorak

The 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar begins with Esprit, a Grande Champagne cognac from Claude Thorin. The Thorin story dates back to 1879, when the family vineyard was first established. Shortly after, phylloxera devastated much of the Charente region. In 1950, André Thorin replanted vines and began rebuilding the estate, initially focusing on parcels in Mainxe, part of the prestigious Grande Champagne cru.

Since the 1990s, Claude Thorin has expanded the estate to 84 hectares, introduced his own cognac range, and joined the independent winegrowers’ association. The property is located in Segonzac, at Biard. In 2021, a new generation – Elise and Mathilde – joined, with Elise overseeing production and Mathilde managing sales.

So, my first review of the month is for the Claude Thorin Esprit Grande Champagne Cognac. Let’s see if switching from my usual whisky advent calendar to a cognac one this year was a good choice!

What Is Cognac?

1st December 20245th December 2024Coldorak

As I will begin and enjoy (I hope), starting tomorrow, my first Cognac Advent Calendar, I thought it would be useful to take the time to explain here what is Cognac. This renowned and prestigious variety of brandy has a storied history rooted in the Charente region of France. Known for its refined flavours, complexity, and artisanal production methods, cognac holds a revered position in the world of spirits. Its name is legally protected, ensuring that only brandy produced under strict guidelines in the Cognac region can carry this prestigious title. From its historical emergence as a trade commodity to its modern status as a symbol of sophistication, cognac’s legacy is rich and multifaceted. This article explores the origins of cognac, its historical significance, and the meticulous process that defines its creation.

A Visit of Celtic Whisky Distillerie

26th October 202326th October 2023Coldorak

In the heart of the rolling emerald hills, on the Goëlo Coast and nestled among the whispers of ancient legends, lies a well-guarded secret waiting to be unveiled: the Celtic Whisky Distillerie. This elusive gem has long been off-limits to the curious gazes of enthusiasts and aficionados. Yet, on a fortunate day, thanks to our local SMWS Ambassador Clément, a select few were granted the extraordinary opportunity to step behind the closed doors of this establishment known for its Glann Ar Mor and Kornog whiskies, embarking on a rare odyssey into the world of craftsmanship and unparalleled spirits. So join us as we recount this exclusive escapade, delving into the history and the intricate processes that define Celtic Whisky Distillerie.

Turntable Spirits Blends

1st October 20236th October 2023Coldorak

I had the chance to be invited a few days ago to a Turntable Spirits tweet tasting, allowing me to taste the first three blends released by this new blending company. Turntable Spirits is a brand new blending house founded by two brothers, with transparency about the contents of their blends. Brexit made my participation to Tweet Tastings complicated to say the least, but thanks to Steve Rush, I was able to join this one. Before we start, let’s say on the record (laughs appreciated) that I received as part of this Tweet Tasting three generous samples for free, but that doesn’t have an influence on my reviews.

Springbank Eat, Sleep, Dram, Repeat

4th August 202313th October 2023Coldorak

Earlier in July, I ‘attended’ with a group of friends the ‘Eat, Sleep, Dram, Repeat’ tour introduced end of last year at Springbank distillery. For almost three days and three nights, you’re well taken care of by the Springbank staff, for visits, tastings, meals and accommodation. And boy, the name of the tour is right. Especially on the dram and repeat parts!