Reviews Archives - Page 2 of 26 - More Drams, Less Drama

Guillon Painturaud Renaissance Cognac

15th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

The fourteenth dram in our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar is a Guilloin Painturaud Renaissance Cognac. The Guillon-Painturaud family has lived on their estate since the early 17th century, originally working as weavers before gradually developing their vineyard. The phylloxera crisis devastated their vines in the late 19th century, and replanting was slow. Even amidst the challenges of two world wars, production carried on, thanks to the dedication of women and elderly members. The family’s Charentais alembic, built in 1914, remains a unique tool for crafting refined and aromatic cognacs.

In 1964, Jean-Pierre breathed new life into the familial enterprise, and by the 1970s, their vineyard was yielding remarkable cognac spirits. In 1975, they introduced Pineau des Charentes, sparking a passion for this speciality. Direct sales began in 1978, and by 1994, Jean-Pierre’s daughter, Line, entered the scene, eventually handing the reins to her and her spouse, Olivier, in 2014.

In 2021, sisters Elise and Mathilde Thorin (daughters of Claude Thorin and active in the family business) embarked on a new chapter with the goal of upholding the family’s values and craftsmanship while continuing to create exceptional Cognacs and Pineaux des Charentes. Under the name ‘Two Sisters Distillers’, they aim to carry the legacy forward.

Mauxion Borderies Lot 45 Cognac

14th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

We begin the second half of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar with a Mauxion Borderies Lot 45 Cognac. The Mauxion family traces its origins back to 1575, when Pierre Mauxion was born in the village of Houlette. Over thirteen generations, the family has remained rooted in the same estate. In 1743, Antoine Mauxion became the first family member to produce eaux-de-vie, beginning a tradition that has been carried forward by ten successive generations. Today, Mauxion Selection continues this legacy, maintaining traditional methods in vineyard care and the crafting of high-quality eaux-de-vie.

Mauxion Selection stands out by offering a range of single-cru expressions in various sizes. All their cognacs are sourced exclusively from the renowned terroirs of Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, and Fins Bois. To preserve the integrity and character of their eaux-de-vie, Mauxion Selection bottles its cognacs at cask strength, without blending or reduction. This approach allows the spirits to retain their natural complexity and depth, showcasing the unique qualities of each vintage and terroir.

Maxime Trijol Réserve Grande Champagne Cognac

13th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

We are already at the halfway point of our Cognac Expert Advent calendar. As we open the 12th door, we find a Maxime Trijol Réserve Grande Champagne Cognac. The Trijol family’s estate traces its roots to the mid-1800s in Saint-Martial-sur-Né, where they built their first distillery in 1859. For over 150 years, the Maxime Trijol brand has operated as a family-run business, preserving knowledge and heritage across five generations. In 1962, the house became a professional distiller. It then started growing its own vineyards for the production of Cognac. Today, with 22 25-hectolitre stills, it produces and distributes Cognac on a much larger scale.

Under the leadership of Jean-Jacques Trijol, this estate has grown into one of the largest cognac distilleries. As master distiller, Jean-Jacques supervises every stage of production. He or one of the skilled cellar masters crafts each bottle, and it undergoes strict quality control, marked with batch numbers for full traceability.

Raymond Bossis XO Limited Edition N°1 Cognac

12th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

Behind ‘door #11’ of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar (in fact, it‘’’s not doors but pouches), we found a Raymond Bossis XO Limited Edition N°1 Cognac. The Domaine des Groies, established in 1919 with its purchase by Philippe Bétard, has been managed by successive generations of the Bossis family. Auguste Bossis planted the first vines in 1924, assisted by his wife Marie, but it wasn’t until 1957, under the leadership of their son Raymond, that the vineyard began to grow. In 1960, the estate distilled its first Cognac, with the last bottles from that initial production sold nearly 50 years later, in 2008. Over the years, Raymond and his wife Michelle expanded the estate, focusing on direct sales and introducing Pineau des Charentes in the 1970s.

In 1993, Raymond’s son Jean-Luc took over, diversifying the estate’s offerings to include Cognac, Pineau des Charentes, traditional-method sparkling wines, and natural grape juice. His brother Jean-Marie joined in 2009, managing bottling and sales for domestic and international markets. Despite his advanced age, Raymond continues to play an active role, celebrating the estate‘’’s centenary in 2019 surrounded by family and friends.

Committed to sustainability, the Domaine des Groies practices integrated farming under the Optimus protocol and is working toward High Environmental Value (HVE) certification. As members of the Federation of Independent Winegrowers, they ensure direct involvement in all aspects of production, reflecting the family’s dedication to quality and tradition. Let’s shortly explain what the Optimus Protocol is below, then we’ll try this Raymond Bossis XO Limited Edition N°1 Cognac.

Monnet XXO Cognac

11th December 202420th December 2024Coldorak

We continue our cognac journey with the tenth dram from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar: a Monnet XXO Cognac. Monnet Cognac was founded in 1838 by Jean-Gabriel Monnet. The company operates from facilities in Cognac, where it was among the first to centralise the entire production process. Its bottles feature a salamander emblem, originally associated with King Francis I. The Monnet Estate covers 23 hectares of clay-limestone soil (groies) in the Fins Bois region. But let’s crack on to the tasting, shall we?

Prunier Horizon Fine Champagne Cognac

10th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

We continue to explore cognacs as we open a Prunier Horizon Cognac, the ninth sample from our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar. Even though Maison Prunier was founded in 1769, you can trace its origins to 1665, when Jean Prunier, a renowned Cognac expert from La Rochelle, began producing wine and eaux-de-vie. By the early 1700s, he was exporting his products globally, establishing Cognac Prunier. His son, Gabriel, and later his grandson, also named Jean, carried on the family’s legacy. François Prunier expanded the business by acquiring vineyards near St-Jean-d’Angély and settling the operation in Cognac in the early 1800s.

The third Jean Prunier’s three sons – Alphonse, Marcel, and Gaston – continued the tradition. Alphonse led the company, Marcel managed European representation, and Gaston founded a branch in Melbourne, Australia. After Alphonse’s death in 1918, his widow enlisted her nephew, Jean Burnez, to lead the business. Jean’s son, Claude Burnez (1927–2011), later succeeded him, passing leadership to his wife, Susan, in 1987. In 2009, their son Stéphane Burnez took over, joined by his daughter Alice in 2016.

Now in its sixth generation, Cognac Prunier remains family-run and based in the same medieval building in Cognac for over two centuries. The company produces a wide range of Cognacs and eaux-de-vie, honouring long-standing traditions. Their offerings span from 2-year-old Cognacs to XO blends, reflecting their commitment to quality and heritage. Let’s review this Prunier Horizon Fine Champagne Cognac now, shall we?

Tesseron Extra Légende Cognac

9th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

As we start the second week of our Cognac-Expert Advent Calendar, the eighth dram is a Tesseron Extra Légende Cognac. Maison Abel Tesseron, founded in 1905, has a rich history of crafting exceptional cognacs. Abel Tesseron established the house with the vision of preserving eaux-de-vie in a 12th-century crypt, leveraging estates in Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Joined by his son Guy in 1940, the family earned renown for their expertise in ageing cognacs, further solidified by Guy’s acquisition of Château Pontet-Canet in 1975. For nearly a century, Tesseron Cognac remained a hidden gem until Alfred and Gérard Tesseron, the third generation, launched the brand’s first XO cognacs in 2000. Today Noé Tesseron, representing the fourth generation, brings a modern perspective to the family’s legacy. The Tesseron cellars, originally part of a 12th-century church crypt, house inside what’s called ‘The Paradis’ (Heaven) the oldest and most treasured eaux-de-vie of the maison, some dating back to Abel Tesseron’s private collection. This invaluable collection, among the largest of aged cognacs, is stored in glass demijohns under ideal conditions to perfect their ageing. Beyond its historical significance, this exceptional reserve serves as a vital resource for creating Tesseron’s most prestigious cognacs. Nowadays, the Maison Terreron exploits about 25 ha of vines in Grande Champagne, and 15 ha in Petite Champagne.

Lhéraud 1994 Vintage Cognac

8th December 20249th December 2024Coldorak

For the 7th dram and last of the first week of the Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we now have a Lhéraud 1994 Vintage cognac, from the Petite Champagne cru. The Lhéraud family’s winemaking heritage spans centuries, beginning with Jean Lhéraud, the founder of the first Lhéraud distillery, around 1785. In 1860, Alexandre Lhéraud settled in the Petite Champagne region to serve the local château keeper (a chatelain) and was the first to plant vines in his garden. The legacy was carried forward and later entrusted to Andrée and Guy, the 8th generation in the Lhéraud family, around fifty years ago when they inherited the cognac estate.

At that time, challenges were abundant, but Andrée and Guy persevered with determination and hard work, focusing on crafting exceptional cognacs and gaining the recognition their products deserved. Their lives revolved around tireless participation in trade fairs and extensive travel to promote their cognacs across the globe. In 1970, the decision to establish the brand name ‘Cognac Lhéraud’ marked a turning point. Though the demanding travel schedule persisted, the brand’s growing reputation attracted global attention, solidifying Lhéraud Cognac’s place in the world of fine spirits (not only cognac but also armagnac and pineau).

Nowadays, their domain spreads over 100 hectares in the Petite Champagne region, and 35 hectares spread over Grande Champagne, Fins Bois and Bons Bois.

Now, time to see what they’re about: let’s review that Lhéraud 1994 Vintage cognac.

Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac

7th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

For day six of our Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we feature the Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac from the Borderies cru. Grateaud, established in 1920, is a family-run producer of Pineau des Charentes, Cognac, and liqueurs. Their estate, located near Chérac in the hamlet of La Maine Garnier, spans 41 hectares of prime Borderies vineyard land, all within a 3-kilometre radius of the property. Recently, they expanded by renting an additional 16 hectares of vines, also in the Borderies commune of Chérac. A few years ago, they acquired 12 hectares in the Petite Champagne cru in Rouffiac, although the eaux-de-vie from these vines are still ageing.

An interesting historical note: in 1932, the French Agriculture Minister awarded David Grateaud’s great-grandfather, Alphonse Grateaud, the prestigious Chevalier du Mérite Agricole (Knight of Agricultural Merit) for his exceptional contributions to agriculture. This honor, established in 1883, was second only to the French Legion of Honour at the time.

In the Borderies, the Grateaud estate nurtures some truly old vines, including centenarians and others planted as far back as 1951. The terroir features silex and clay, contributing to the unique profile of their Cognacs. By contrast, their vines in Rouffiac, Petite Champagne, grow in limestone-rich soil that dries out quickly and lies at a lower altitude, making them more susceptible to spring frosts.

But enough background—let’s take a more exciting approach to discover this estate by diving straight into their Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac!

Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac

6th December 20246th December 2024Coldorak

My fifth Cognac sample from the Cognac Expert Advent Calendar 2024 is a Fradon XO Petite Champagne Cognac. Fradon’s history starts under another name, as Henri Chainier pioneered the bottling and commercialisation of Pineau des Charentes in the 1930s, a local aperitif that people only enjoyed within families at the time. In the 1950s, his daughter Denise married Marc Fradon, and the domain changed name to Fradon. In 1989, their son Michel took over the estate, expanding direct sales and welcoming visitors to the domain. Today, Damien, Henri’s great-grandson, carries on the family tradition. Whilst they used mostly Ugni Blanc grapes, they introduced the Folle Blanche grape to their production in 2003. Despite its lower yield, susceptibility to rot, and challenging vinification, it delivers exceptional eaux-de-vie that are refined, delicate, and intensely aromatic. Fradon‘’’s domain extends over 40 ha in the Petite Champagne region.