For day six of our Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we feature the Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac from the Borderies cru. Grateaud, established in 1920, is a family-run producer of Pineau des Charentes, Cognac, and liqueurs. Their estate, located near Chérac in the hamlet of La Maine Garnier, spans 41 hectares of prime Borderies vineyard land, all within a 3-kilometre radius of the property. Recently, they expanded by renting an additional 16 hectares of vines, also in the Borderies commune of Chérac. A few years ago, they acquired 12 hectares in the Petite Champagne cru in Rouffiac, although the eaux-de-vie from these vines are still ageing.
An interesting historical note: in 1932, the French Agriculture Minister awarded David Grateaud’s great-grandfather, Alphonse Grateaud, the prestigious Chevalier du Mérite Agricole (Knight of Agricultural Merit) for his exceptional contributions to agriculture. This honor, established in 1883, was second only to the French Legion of Honour at the time.
In the Borderies, the Grateaud estate nurtures some truly old vines, including centenarians and others planted as far back as 1951. The terroir features silex and clay, contributing to the unique profile of their Cognacs. By contrast, their vines in Rouffiac, Petite Champagne, grow in limestone-rich soil that dries out quickly and lies at a lower altitude, making them more susceptible to spring frosts.
But enough background—let’s take a more exciting approach to discover this estate by diving straight into their Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac!
Grateaud Hors d’Âge Cognac Review
Grateaud’s Hors d’Âge Cognac is a 40-year-old Borderies expression made from Ugni Blanc grapes planted in 1951. Distilled with the lees in their 25-hectolitres still, the eaux-de-vie were aged in oak casks from cooperages such as Taransaud, Red Oak, and Vicard, featuring fine-grain wood and a medium toast. Bottled at 43% ABV after reduction and with no additives, expect to pay around €100–115 for a bottle.
Colour:
Old oak with a copper hue.
Nose:
Neat: Notes of caramelised apples reminiscent of tarte tatin, accompanied by a touch of pepper and subtle hints of nail varnish remover that gradually evolve into accents of eucalyptus and menthol cigarettes. Layers of hazelnuts, almonds and cracked apricot stone add some nuttiness.
Palate:
Neat: Wood spices are the first on the arrival, followed by brown sugar caramel and zesty citrus notes of lime and grapefruit. The caramelised apples from the nose now shift to the pastry of a tarte tatin, engorged with caramel and cooked apple juice. Layers of hazelnuts, cashews, raisins, toffee, and a touch of woody bitterness blend with a syrupy sweetness. The mouthfeel is slightly thin but not overly so.
Finish:
The caramel lingers, accompanied by a gentle spicy heat, hints of menthol, and a touch of rancio. It leaves a warm, soft sensation in the throat and a lasting peppery tingle on the tongue.
Comments:
A clear step up from the Bache Gabrielsen and Fradon cognacs, this Grateaud Hors d’Âge offers an underlying natural sweetness with comforting tarte tatin notes. Despite its age, it maintains a delightful freshness. Nice.
