For the third cognac in our 2024 Cognac Expert Advent Calendar, we stay in the Fins Bois region with Martinaud XO Heritage. Founded in 1847, the estate is now managed by the eighth generation of the Martinaud family, with Pierre-Alain and Michel Martinaud at the helm. The domain spans 23 hectares in Bons Bois, nine hectares in Petite Champagne, two hectares in Fins Bois, and half a hectare in Grande Champagne.
The Martinaud family prioritises sustainability, focusing on biodiversity preservation, a phytosanitary strategy, and water resource conservation to produce the finest eaux-de-vie. Distillation is carried out in two Charentais stills with capacities of 25 and 20 hectoliters, and their cognacs age in a relatively dry cellar, where the oldest eaux-de-vie dates back to 1929.
However, today’s review is focused on Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac, not those ancient stocks.
Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac Review
Martinaud XO Heritage is crafted from Ugni Blanc grapes harvested in 1962 and 1963 in the Fins Bois region. It was aged for over 50 years in barrels made from fine-grain wood with a medium toast, though the barrels’ precise origin is unknown. Bottled at 40% ABV without additives, it’s unclear whether this represents its natural strength or if it was adjusted. Despite its exceptional ageing, it remains reasonably priced, typically costing around €95.
Colour:
Burnt umber.
Nose:
Neat: A delightful blend of cedar wood and tropical fruits – passion fruit, mango, and guava – greets the senses. As it aerates, the aromas blossom, filling the glass and the room with vibrant notes. Hints of freshly squeezed orange juice, beeswax, subtle rancio, and a touch of caramel.
Palate:
Neat: The arrival is unexpectedly sweet, showcasing caramel and vanilla, accompanied by a gentle spice that tingles on the tongue. The vanilla gradually transitions into woody flavours, with a soft bitterness and a hint of rancio. Notes of peaches in syrup, ripe mango, and lychees add a fruity richness. Despite the low ABV, the mouthfeel is creamy, suggesting much of the alcohol reduction may have occurred naturally.
Finish:
The finish is long, highlighted by rancio and wood tannins that leave a gentle dryness on the gums. Notes of mango, peaches in syrup, and a hint of pepper linger elegantly.
Comments:
The nose and palate are delightful – very fruity – and if you follow this blog, you’ll know how much I love tropical fruits. However, despite its vibrant freshness for a cognac that’s half a century old, I find the Martinaud XO Heritage Cognac slightly too sweet for my taste and lacking a touch of oomph. A bit more ABV would have elevated the mouthfeel further. That said, a 50-year-old cognac for under €100? It’s an astonishingly good value.
