Pulteney distillery, known for its whisky labelled Old Pulteney, was once the northernmost whisky distillery on mainland Scotland. However, this title was later taken by Wolfburn and then 8 Doors distillery. The northernmost whisky distillery in Scotland overall is Highland Park. In 1825, James Henderson, who had been distilling illegally in Stemster, moved to Pulteneytown to establish a legitimate whisky distillery. The Henderson family owned it for almost a century until selling it to Jas. Watson of Dundee in 1920. In 1922, Wick town council banned alcohol sales under the influence of an American evangelist, and by 1924, Old Pulteney was sold to John Dewar & Sons, eventually becoming part of DCL. The distillery closed in 1930 due to a market downturn and reopened in 1951, four years after the ban was lifted, when local businessman Robert ‘Bertie’ Cumming bought it. He sold it, along with Balblair, to Hiram Walker in 1955. Following a series of mergers, it became part of Allied Distillers, who sold it to Inver House in 1995 when it was in desperate need of repairs. In 2001, Pacific Spirits acquired Inver House, which was later purchased by Thailand’s International Beverage Holding in 2006. Today, we will sample several Old Pulteney whiskies from the core range, including the 12- and 15-year-old expressions, the 2012 Flotilla, a 2006 Vintage released for Global Travel Retail, and an independent bottling: a 2008 single cask bottled by Daily Dram.
Old Pulteney 12-Year-old (2021) Review
This 12-year-old whisky is the second expression in the core range, following the non-age statement (NAS) Harbour. Old Pulteney 12-year-old is aged exclusively in ex-bourbon casks and bottled at 40% ABV, with added colouring nor chill filtration. The price starts at £34 in the UK and €34 in Europe.
Colour:
Deep copper… but it’s fake.
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents aromas of pineapple leaves, melon and peach, along with hints of citrus. There are also earthy compost notes, light iodine, a sea breeze, and old seaweed on the beach.
Palate:
Neat: The palate has a very light and thin mouthfeel. It features prominent woody and salty flavours, with notes of diluted honey and caramel, similar to flavoured water. There are also hints of pepper, milk chocolate, and a touch of cardboard.
Finish:
Peppery with a touch of cardboard and a gentle warmth.
Comments:
The nose, though not exceptional, was somewhat promising. However, this hope was quickly dashed by the palate, which was overly weak and dominated by woody notes, making it quite disappointing.
Rating: 4/10
Old Pulteney 15-year-old (2021) Review
Old Pulteney 15-year-old is initially matured in second-fill ex-bourbon casks and then finished in first-fill ex-Oloroso Spanish oak casks (though Oloroso is not explicitly mentioned). It is bottled at 46% ABV without chill filtration and appears to have no additional colouring. The price starts at about €70 in Europe and £70 in the UK.
Colour:
Deep gold.
Nose:
Neat: The aroma unfolds with ripe, juicy fruits infused by tangy plum juice, balanced against a delicate hint of tartness. After a few moments, a subtle maritime essence emerges, accompanied by a touch of bitterness. Over time, the fruity notes seamlessly meld with a slightly bitter herbal aroma, reminiscent of Scottish heather. While there’s no smoky peat, a suggestion of seaweed is carried by the scent of a coastal breeze.
Palate:
Neat: The arrival surpasses its 12-year-old counterpart. Spicy and prickly plum juice takes centre stage, complemented by milk chocolate and a medley of wood spices. Delicate notes of honey, herbs, vanilla, ripe peach, crisp apple, and juicy pear, with a pinch of salt and a subtle hint of minerals.
Finish:
Milk chocolate, light Spanish oak tannins and spices, with notes of apple, pear, and plum. Good length with a lasting warmth.
Comments:
Lovely dram, much better than the 12-year-old. The Spanish oak finish adds depth, nicely complemented by the higher ABV. Whilst it leans towards a woody profile, its crispness and freshness are very enjoyable.
Rating: 6/10
Old Pulteney 2012 Flotilla (2022) Review
Next up is the 2012 Old Pulteney Flotilla, a 10-year-old expression matured in bourbon casks and bottled in 2022 at 46% ABV, without chill filtration. This release appears to be the final edition in a series that began in 2012. Available across Europe, prices range from €43 to approximately €60 depending on the country.
Colour:
Jonquille
Nose:
Neat: Initially reserved, it benefits from aeration in the glass. Simple yet pristine, with notes of vanilla, subtle saltiness, bread and yeast, hints of spice, figs, chalk, and a touch of rustic earthiness and notes reminiscent of a farm.
Palate:
Neat: Vanilla and spices dominate, especially peppery heat. Salty undertones complement flavours of lemon, basil, hay, and the combination of salmon sushi with wasabi and sweet soy sauce.
Finish:
The peppery and wasabi flavours persist, accompanied by honey, vanilla, and subtle herbal notes.
Comments:
The bourbon casks have left a significant imprint on the whisky, yet the maritime character remains distinct. It’s straightforward yet sufficiently complex for an enjoyable sipping experience… though it might disappear quickly from your glass.
Rating: 6/10
Old Pulteney 2006 Vintage (2017) Review
Next, we move on to a discontinued travel retail release, featuring a vintage rather than a non-age statement (NAS), which is always a welcome rarity in travel retail selections. This 2006 Old Pulteney was bottled in 2017 after approximately 10 years of maturation in first-fill bourbon casks, with no artificial colouring or chill filtration. It’s still obtainable at a few European retailers for just over €50, a reasonable price for a 1,000 ml bottle.
Colour:
Pale straw
Nose:
Neat: This whisky is very fruity, offering notes of peach, pear, and green apple, alongside accents of vanilla and coconut imparted by the first-fill bourbon casks. There’s a subtle maritime influence with hints of kelp and seaweed, complemented by buttery sweet shortcrust pastry and a touch of earthiness.
Palate:
Neat: Once again, the whisky is notably fruity, with a spicy and slightly tropical character featuring apricot, pineapple, and grapefruit, complemented by a hint of salt. There’s a subtle woody bitterness, balanced with a touch of black pepper alongside abundant vanilla and hints of white chocolate.
Finish:
The finish lingers with citrusy notes and coconut shavings.
Comments:
For once, a travel retail expression that lives up to expectations. It shows clear cask influence while maintaining the distinctive Old Pulteney character. Easy to enjoy sip by sip, yet intriguing enough to warrant attention.
Rating: 6/10
Old Pulteney 2008 Daily Dram (2020) Review
Last but not least, we have an independent bottling in our glass: a 2008 Old Pulteney bottled by Daily Dram for The Nectar, a prominent Belgian spirits importer. The cask was chosen from Signatory Vintage’s extensive inventory, although the type was unspecified. Bottled in 2020 at cask strength (57.5%), with no added colouring or chill filtration. This expression is still available in Belgium for around €80.
Colour:
Pale straw.
Nose:
Neat: Initially sharp and intense, reminiscent of the official 2012 Flotilla expression. It’s a bit overwhelming, with the alcohol burning the nostrils, making note-taking challenging. Notes of vanilla pods, ice cream, and coconut emerge, suggesting it might benefit from a splash of water to facilitate tasting.
With water: Even with several drops of water added, the sharpness persists.
Palate:
Neat: This whisky arrives with a delightful blend of maritime notes and vanilla, intensified by its high ABV. There’s a warming ginger heat, accompanied by wood spices and a subtle bitterness, along with milk chocolate and salted caramel chunks.
With water: Diluting brings out fruity notes, including plum and green apple, alongside grapefruit and an enhanced chocolate character, as well as something reminiscent of Arlequin sweets.
Finish:
Notes of wood are accompanied by hints of chocolate, cherry, and green apple.
Comments:
The palate is lovely, but unfortunately, the sharpness on the nose prevents this whisky from achieving a higher rating. Even with dilution and a 1920 blender’s glass, the alcohol heat makes it challenging to fully discern and appreciate the aromas.
