We have yet to feature a Glengoyne here, so let’s remedy that with an extensive selection. Since 1833, the distillery has been a fixture on its site, initially under the Edmonstone family and later under the MacLellands in the 1850s. Acquired by the Lang Bros in 1876, it underwent name changes from Burnfoot to Glen Guin, finally adopting the name Glengoyne in 1905. Integral to Lang Brothers’ blends like Supreme and Robertson & Baxter’s offerings (now Edrington), Lang Brothers was absorbed by the latter in 1965. Glengoyne’s single malt era began in the 1990s, boasting ‘the unpeated malt’ distinction. Notably, the distillery is located in the Highlands, while its warehouses lie in the Lowlands. In 2003, Edrington sold Glengoyne to Ian MacLeod for £7.2m, leading to a revitalisation of its single malt brand and the transformation of the distillery into a popular tourist destination. Let’s explore eight Glengoyne expressions, including two 10-year-olds, one 12-year-old, one 18-year-old, three distinct 21-year-olds, and a Cask Strength release.
Glengoyne 10-Year-Old (1990s) Review
The label indicates that Ian Taylor oversaw the bottling as the distillery manager, dating this Glengoyne batch to sometime between 1979 and 1998. It’s likely from the 1990s, deduced from the ‘red age statement’ labels. While the specific cask types used for maturing this 10-year-old whisky remain undisclosed, it was diluted to a 40% alcohol content prior to bottling.
Colour:
Amontillado sherry.
Nose:
Neat: It presents an unusual profile with a compost-like aroma of decaying pear and apple peels. It’s complemented by the sweet scents of apple and orange-flavoured lollipops, alongside a backdrop of malt and a medley of baking spices.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is characterised by a thin and watery mouthfeel and an initial taste of sweetened water. It carries a hint of citrus zest, a touch of malt, a light pinch of pepper and wood planks.
Finish:
The finish offers a persistent sweetness akin to sugary water, accompanied by a lasting peppery note of medium duration.
Comments:
The aroma is subdued, the mouthfeel flat, and the scent of fermenting fruit peels lends an unusual twist. While it’s not awfully unpleasant, there are too few redeeming qualities.
Rating: 4/10
Glengoyne 10-year-old (2019) Review
The latest Glengoyne 10-year-old expression undergoes maturation in sherry casks crafted from both European and American Oak. It is then bottled at 40% ABV. Glengoyne assures that the hue is all-natural, though one should anticipate chill filtration due to the modest ABV. The price for a bottle hovers around £37/€40.
Colour:
Old gold
Nose:
Neat: The nose presents a vibrant fruitiness reminiscent of the previous iteration, yet it has evolved beyond mere fruit compost. It boasts an array of overripe fruits such as apricot, peach, and pear, complemented by the sweet scent of apple lollipop and a bouquet of fresh flowers. This aroma is notably more pronounced than that of the 1990s bottling.
Palate:
Neat: The palate, while still on the lighter side, offers a more dynamic experience compared to its predecessor. It features a subtle blend of dry yellow fruits, a hint of sweetness akin to sugary water, and earthy and woody undertones of pine needles and sawdust, rounded off with digestive biscuits.
Finish:
The finish is characterised by the enduring taste of digestive biscuits and a heightened sense of maltiness, accompanied by a delicate sweetness reminiscent of sugar water.
Comments:
It bears a resemblance to the version from the 1990s, yet it’s somewhat more vibrant, or rather, not as subdued. However, it’s still not something that would stir one from sleep.
Rating: 5/10
Glengoyne 12-year-old (2019) Review
The Glengoyne 12-year-old is matured in ex-Bourbon and Sherry Casks before being bottled at a slightly higher 43%, still natural colour but chill filtered. From £43 in the UK or €42 in Europe.
Colour:
Amontillado sherry.
Nose:
Neat: The nose of the 12-year-old is closely aligned with the 10-year-old variant from 2019, though it presents a marginally less crisp character with a subtle increase in sherry cask influence. The bouquet is rich with the scents of overripe fruits, including apricot, peach, and pear, alongside the sweet fragrance of apple lollipop and Tagada strawberry candy, with a nuance of blackcurrant and a recurring presence of fresh floral notes.
Palate:
Neat: On the palate, despite the modest increase in ABV, the texture remains somewhat delicate. It begins with a peppery kick, followed by a familiar sweetness akin to sugar water, closely mirroring the 10-year-old profile. Additional touch of chocolate and a hint of grist are the subtle differences with the 10-year-old.
Finish:
The finish is marked by a malty backbone, complemented by a subtle citrus zest and the smoothness of milk chocolate, but the finish is quite short.
Comments:
The aroma and taste offer a bit more complexity than the 10-year-old variant, yet they bear a strong resemblance. The finish is notably brief and, like its counterparts, this Glengoyne 12-year-old does not leave a lasting impression.
Rating: 5/10
Glengoyne 18-year-old (2019) Review
The Glengoyne 18-year-old is matured in 35% 1st Fill European Oak Sherry casks, 15% 1st Fill American Oak Sherry, and 50% Oak Refill casks. It is bottled at 43% ABV, with chill filtration and natural colour. It seems to be only available as a 50 ml miniature or a 20 cl bottle on Glengoyne’s website, with a price of £42 for the 20 cl bottle (so about £147 if it was a 70 cl bottle). Expect to pay from €150 in Europe.
Colour:
Chestnut
Nose:
Neat: The nose evokes memories of the 1990s 10-year-old profile, featuring a rich compost of apple, orange, lemon, and grapefruit peels. Notes of hazelnuts and grapefruit, and a woody side brought by sandalwood and cedar.
Palate:
Neat: The palate offers a slightly more robust texture than the 12-year-old, despite sharing the same ABV. It features a blend of peppery spice, lime, and grapefruit juice, complemented by the aromatic notes of cedar wood. Nutty undertones of hazelnuts and walnuts merge with a subtle dark chocolate flavour, rounded off with delicate traces of blackcurrant.
Finish:
On the finish, the peppery zest and blackcurrant notes endure, accompanied by the warm essence of cedar wood, all persisting for a medium duration.
Comments:
It’s a notable improvement. While not outstanding, it’s certainly commendable. The quality could be enhanced significantly if it were bottled at 46% and without undergoing chill filtration.
Rating: 6/10
Glengoyne 21-year-old (2016) Review
We’ll examine the progression of Glengoyne 21-year-old whiskies from various years, starting with one bottled in 2016. This expression is aged exclusively in sherry casks, mainly first-fill European Oak Sherry Casks. It’s presented at 43% ABV, and while it retains its natural colour, it does undergo chill filtration – a point of contention for some (and certainly for me), considering its price point (from £170 for the latest one), which could arguably warrant a higher ABV of 46% without chill filtration.
Colour:
Light tawny
Nose:
Neat: The nose offers a medium intensity, richer than its younger counterparts, with an array of red fruits and berries like strawberry jam, blackcurrant, blueberry, and gooseberries. It’s delicately spiced with cinnamon and rounded out with the nuttiness of almonds and the sweetness of figs.
Palate:
Neat: The palate initially presents a satisfyingly substantial enough texture. It starts with a robust peppery zing and a burst of citrus. However, subsequent sips reveal a slight thinning in consistency. The palate is further defined by a woody bitterness, an infusion of bitters, and an array of herbal nuances, with clove being particularly discernible.
Finish:
The finish is marked by a sustained bitterness and the enduring presence of herbal notes.
Comments:
The sherry character is pronounced, aligning with expectations from the cask make-up, yet it remains balanced. The initial taste is promising, though a creeping bitterness emerges with further sips, leaving a sense that it falls just short of being truly memorable.
Rating: 5.5/10
Glengoyne 21-year-old (2019) Review
We’re now evaluating the Glengoyne 21-year-old from the 2019 bottling, which remains consistent with the characteristics of the 2016 release.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: The nose is less intense compared to the 2016 bottling, with a subtle but undefined bouquet of red fruits, predominantly red cherries, accompanied by plums and faint woody aromas.
Palate:
Neat: This time I’m greeted with an initial sourness, followed by notes of wood and dark chocolate. The palate is further defined by the astringency of wood tannins, the distinct bitterness of gentian herbs, and an underlying sweetness reminiscent of sugary water.
Finish:
The finish is notably straightforward, with a minimalist character that features a persistent herbaceous bitterness and a hint of woodiness, yet it lacks the depth and complexity one might expect from a whisky with this.
Comments:
The sherry presence is pronounced in this batch, as anticipated. Yet, it falls short in clarity and sharpness, with the flavour notes appearing less distinct and more muddled than those of the 2016 batch.
Rating: 4.5/10
Glengoyne 21-year-old (2022) Review
Last but, I hope, not least, we’re now trying a 2022 batch of the Glengoyne 21-year-old. Expect to pay from £170 in the UK for a bottle, and from €165 in Europe.
Colour:
Russet
Nose:
Neat: This 2022 batch exhibits a more pronounced intensity than its 2019 counterpart. It bursts with the vivid flavours of red fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, and gooseberries, reminiscent of grenadine syrup. The profile is further enriched with the sweetness of figs and sultanas, alongside the creamy notes of milk chocolate.
Palate:
Neat: It starts with the earthiness of tea leaves and a medley of red fruits. A spicy interplay of pepper, chili, and ginger emerges, followed by refreshing citrus notes and woody undertones. The sherry influence is lighter on the palate than what the nose initially indicates.
Finish:
The finish is moderate in length, with the zesty citrus and herbal flavours persisting, complemented by a subtle woody nuance.
Comments:
The 2022 Glengoyne 21-year-old surpasses its predecessors, offering a quality experience. However, whether it justifies the cost disparity with the 18-year-old variant is debatable.
Rating: 6/10
Glengoyne Cask Strength Batch 007 (2019) Review
The Glengoyne Cask Strength Batch 007 comprises a blend of casks: 5% Bourbon, 32% first-fill Sherry, and 63% Refill. Part of an annual series that started in 2012, each batch is a no-age-statement whisky with a unique cask strength. The seventh edition boasts a 58.9% ABV, and it’s presented without chill filtration and in its natural colour. While the 2019 batch is no longer available, the most recent release, batch 010, can be acquired for approximately €70 in Europe or £74 in the UK.
Colour:
Chestnut
Nose:
Neat: The nose has robust intensity that surpasses its predecessors, albeit not to the extent anticipated. It unfurls a bouquet of sweet, dark fruits and caramel, intertwined with an abundant vanilla essence and a hint of butterscotch. A subtle warmth and a crisp edge from the alcohol complete the profile, rendering it straightforward yet charming.
With water: Introducing water accentuates the nose’s sharpness and ushers in a woody character. However, the aroma is most appreciable in its neat form, as the addition of water seems to detract from its appeal.
Palate:
Neat: The palate is ignited with a lively alcohol warmth, weaving through layers of butterscotch and vanilla. A zesty tang of citrus cuts through, accompanied by the richness of chocolate. Notes of slightly tart blueberry mingle with the deeper, sweeter tones of figs and dates.
With water: A splash of water transforms the texture to a velvety creaminess. The spirited heat retreats, making way for a spicy dance of pepper, nutmeg, and clove, while a subtle undercurrent of hazelnuts.
Finish:
Simple, with whispers of chocolate and caramel.
Comments:
The texture has notably improved, offering a more refined mouthfeel. However, there’s room for greater intricacy in the flavour profile, as a certain youthful vigour manifests in a pronounced sharpness, particularly evident on the nose. It prompts a longing for a Glengoyne of greater age whilst maintaining the robust character of cask strength.
