Bowmore stands as Islay’s most ancient licensed distillery, sparking my initial interest for whisky some two decades ago with their 15-year-old expression. Back then, I was slim and still had some hair on my head. My, how time flies. Twenty years later, a visit to the distillery in July 2023 proved an exhilarating experience. Our guide’s warmth and knowledge captivated us, the other guests and me, allowing us to savour a unique moment of bottling a small cask sample straight from the cask in one of their warehouses. Then, our tasting session revealed a trove of delicious whiskies, awaiting my eventual review. But today, we explore three indy Bowmore expressions from three independent bottlers: The Whisky Agency, Svenska Eldvatten, and Malts of Scotland.
Bowmore 1996 The Whisky Agency Review
The Whisky Agency a club of German whisky enthusiasts that has been engaged in whisky bottling under their own label since 2008, with more than 800 bottlings already. This Bowmore single cask was distilled in 1996 and bottled in 2013, after 17 years of maturation in a hogshead numbered 960031. It was then bottled at 49.8% ABV (no indication of reduction or otherwise), with an outturn of 304 bottles split between La Maison Du Whisky and Spirits Shop Selection, a shop and indy bottler based in Taiwan. Not sure about the original price, but a shop in Italy is selling a bottle of this Bowmore for €350.
Colour:
Jonquille
Nose:
Neat: Initially, a distinct maritime essence prevails, reminiscent of crushed seashells, with a delicate touch of peat. Evoking images of driftwood basking in the sun, mingled with antiseptic freshness and the crisp scent of fresh gaze. Notes of zesty lemons emerge, accompanied by the faint aroma of rubber wellies worn by the lemon harvester.
With water: The lemon notes become more pronounced, intertwining with hints of shingles, while subtle undertones of stone fruit, such as peach and apricot, reveal themselves.
Palate:
Neat: Initially, one might question the presence of peat, as its arrival is delayed, but soon it asserts itself. The palate exhibits purity and precision, akin to what Serge or Angus might describe as ‘chiselled’. Notes of caramel reminiscent of Werther’s Original candies meld with the lemon from the nose. A medley of spices emerges, including various peppers, chili, and caraway, alongside subtle woody and mineral undertones. A touch of salt precedes a crescendo of eucalyptus and a hint of sugary sweetness at the end.
With water: Retaining all the aforementioned elements but with a diminished sweetness, the palate remains delightful and well-balanced.
Finish:
Lingering sensations of eucalyptus and salty minerals persist, accompanied by nuances of slightly salted milk chocolate.
Comments:
This series of reviews kicks off on a high note, with this Bowmore proving to be truly delightful. Its purity and craftsmanship shine through, showcasing a cask that imparts just the right level of influence without overpowering the spirit. It embodies everything one desires in an elegant, subtly expressive Islay whisky, and even improves with a dash of water, balancing out any hint of excess sweetness on the palate. Simply superb.
Rating: 8/10
Bowmore 2000 Svenska Eldvatten Review
Svenska Eldvatten, established in 2011 as a Swedish independent bottler, selected a Bowmore distilled in 2000 for their 2013 release. However, with only 105 bottles at 20cl each, one might speculate it was a collaborative bottling or that they retained a portion of the cask they had bottled in 2010, which yielded 253 full-sized bottles at cask strength, to allow further maturation. The possibility of recasking arises, given the cask number of the reviewed bottle, SE115. Despite being sold out, I acquired my bottle through auction in 2022.
Colour:
Pale straw.
Nose:
Neat: Noticeably sharper than the TWA variant, indicating a higher alcohol by volume. Scents of zesty lemons, salt, seawater, and a hint of distant smoke mingle with nuances of olive brine and chlorine, but I feel the nose is awaiting some release with a few drops of water.
With water: Subtle hints of distant medicinal notes emerge, although not significantly altered beyond that.
Palate:
Neat: The palate unfolds with a salty, lemony surge, followed by the emergence of medicinal peat, accompanied by distinct notes of eucalyptus and menthol cigarettes. A subtle undertone of caramel intertwines with hints of spices and pebbles. The mouthfeel is notably oily.
With water: Soft wood notes gently make their presence known, whilst an increased smokiness pervades the palate, complemented by nuances of smoked chocolate.
Finish:
Lemon notes persist, alongside refreshing eucalyptus and menthol, with a touch of salt.
Comments:
While this expression holds its own, it doesn’t quite reach the heights set by the 1996 TWA bottling. I anticipated a richer olfactory experience, and while the palate is enjoyable, it leans towards simplicity. Nonetheless, it remains a very good whisky overall.
Rating: 7/10
Bowmore 2001 Malts of Scotland Review
This Bowmore 2001, bottled in 2019 by Malts of Scotland, showcases a noticeable change in colour compared to the previous two bottles we reviewed above. This German bottler, established in 2005, bottled this expression after 17 years of maturation in a sherry hogshead, designated as MoS19021. With just 139 bottles filled at 49.2%, this release was exclusive to Malts of Scotland’s warehouse shop and has since sold out.
Colour:
Brown sherry
Nose:
Neat: The nose unveils an array of rich fruits including cherries, raisins, and figs, accompanied by the zestiness of oranges. Subsequent layers reveal fresher tones of eucalyptus and mint, intertwined with hints of leather, unlit cigar, and dates, all underpinned by the robust presence of dark chocolate. Balsamic and raspberry vinegars add a tangy complexity.
With water: Adding water enhances the earthy elements, unveiling notes of ash and soot alongside a deeper, more pronounced peatiness.
Palate:
Neat: The marriage of peat and sherry proves to be a harmonious blend on the palate. Echoing the aromatic medley of the nose, flavours of cherries, raisins, figs, and oranges interplay seamlessly. It’s akin to savouring a Black Forest cake infused with the smokiness of a fine cigar, accompanied by a glass of raspberry wine, offering a sweeter counterpart to the vinegar notes previously detected.
With water: Introducing water accentuates the peaty character, while also intensifying the presence of red berries, with prominent notes of raspberries, gooseberries, and black currants.
Finish:
The lingering flavours from the palate persist into the finish, accompanied by the emergence of a subtle woody bitterness.
Comments:
This whisky showcases a successful union between an active sherry cask and peated whisky, where both elements harmonise seamlessly without overshadowing one another. The result is a deeply flavourful and rich dram that proves dangerously easy to drink. In essence, it’s simply superb.
Rating: 8/10
Thank you Benjamin and Eraldo! Photos lifted from Whiskybase and Whisky Auctioneer.
